Gomukh Tapovan Trek
I had tears rolling
down my cheeks. Somewhat because of the cold and also slightly because of fear.
I could now actually see the last protruding rock at the top which I knew was
the summit. From that rock started the beautiful Tapovan meadows. That also
meant my nightmare was soon about to get over. I must say some of the tears
were tears of relief.
The last part was
taking its toll on each one of us. The road to the top never eased out and we
were still ascending at a 70-degree angle over very, very loose rock and
gravel. I closed my eyes for just a second when I remembered how I had seen
that huge rock rolling down the slope after it was touched by one of us. Every
step I took, I held my breath to check if the rocks were rolling down. my feet
kept slipping at every step I took and I had to steady myself. There was
nowhere to hold either. I made the mistake of clutching at a couple of rocks in
the initial ascent and as soon as I touched them, they came off and rolled
down. Thank god they weren’t that big.
Our trek leaders kept
encouraging us and ‘Shabbash’ was passed around to increase morale. Every step
felt like a battle by itself and I kept telling myself to concentrate on one
step at a time and I would eventually reach the summit…..
5th October, 2019
Day 1: Dehradun to
Gangotri
We reached Dehradun in
the wee hours and directly stood outside Dehradun railway station to be picked
up. Today was our long drive up to Gangotri. Though the distance was 290 kms,
the drive was going to take more than 9 hours. Our anti-nausea pills were ready
with us in the front zipper of our bags. I somehow managed to divert my
attention to the rolling hills and the turquoise colored rivers so that I could
control my nausea. My friends and other fellow passengers weren’t that lucky.
We started from Dehradun at 6 AM and reached Gangotri just as the last rays of
the sun were disappearing from the evening sky.
Gangotri: As we
reached in the evening, we could hardly see our surroundings. But there was
something we could definitely hear; the roaring sound of the Ganga. Or the
Bhagirathi as she is called in that area. The entire tiny little town in on a
mountain slope which meant we had to climb up with our luggage. We were
surprised by our breathlessness after a very short climb till the hotel. I am a
regular runner and trekker and not used to feeling breathless so easily and yet
I was panting after two floors of stairs.
Gangotri sits at
10,000 feet above sea level. I have been to 16,000 feet before this and yet the
acute breathlessness in Gangotri puzzled me. Till date, I don’t really have an
answer why all of us were so breathless. It might have something to do with the
topography and the meager tree cover in the area. It was even more important
for us to get acclimatized and our second day of the trek was reserved for the
same.
Day 2 – Gangotri :
Acclimatization walk
 |
| Surya Kund |
The following morning,
we woke up again to the beautiful sound of the Ganga. As soon as I opened my
door, I could see her flowing freely in the valley just below the town. The
view was mesmerizing. The town was surrounded by mountains; whose peaks rose
precariously high. After a hearty breakfast and garam-garam chai, we started
with our acclimatization walk. We roamed around town and visited the Surya
Kund, Pandav Gufa and finally the Gangotri temple. The town is enchanting
because of its natural surrounding and yet it is a typical pilgrimage place.
 |
| Gangotri Temple |
In the evening, we
walked higher up and went past the temple, walking side by side the Ganga. We
found a quite place to relax and sat there till sunset. It was surprisingly
chilly for early October. The locals themselves agreed that it hardly ever gets
so chilly during the first half of October. I was expecting the temperature to
be between 10 and 15 degrees but it was already below 10 degrees. And it was
going to get colder as we moved higher.
 |
| Randomly scaring people |
Day 3 – Gangotri to
Chidbasa
Distance – 9 KMs
Difficulty level –
Moderate
The first day of trek
is always mixed with excitement and anxiety. We were ready for the challenge.
On all my treks I have learnt to do it one day at a time and to not think about
the summit. It was important to enjoy the trek and to take in every minute.
I had lost network
once we reached Gangotri though some Jio users did have network. Post Gangotri
there is absolutely no network coverage.
After a very steep
climb up the mountain, a more gradual ascent emerged. The path is a stoned
pathway which runs alongside the Bhagirathi. But the path is at a height and
one can see the river curving its way through the valley. The path in itself is
not difficult at all and the climb is gradual. There are a few patches where
there is a severe landslide warning where it is important to pay attention. We
were asked to not stop during these patches and to always keep an eye and an
ear out for sliding rock. There are some very pretty stream crossings that you
will cover.
We stopped for lunch
along our path, beneath some trees and rested awhile before getting back on the
track. The camp site Chidbasa is literally called that because its located in a
small forest of Chid trees. We could see the forest looming ahead of us and
kept climbing towards it.
On our way to Chidbasa
we saw for the very first time, the Bhagirathi peaks. Bhagirathi 1, 2 and 3
stood tall before us in the landscape. We knew we were going towards the peaks
and the thought was mesmerizing. Mount Shivling on the other hand is not
visible at all. We also saw Nanda 1 and 2 during our climb and a very small
peak at Mount Meru. There were many other really tall peaks which were unnamed
and unexplored.
The Chidbasa campsite
sits between the trees and is a stone’s throw away from the river. We reached
the campsite by 2.30 PM and immediately started working on setting up our
tents. The dinner tent was set up by the TTH team. After all the tents were up,
we all gathered in the dinner tent for snacks, soup and games.
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| The most important tent - Toilet Tent |
Day 4 – Chidbasa to Bhojwasa
Distance – 5 KMs
Difficulty level –
Easy
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| Bhojwasa Campsite and Bhagirathi Peaks |
We were surprised to
find tiny snow and ice flakes on our tents, belongings, grass and ground. The
temperature had touched the 0 mark during the night. No wonder most of us had
hardly slept. My sleeping bag never warmed up and my toes kept getting numb
throughout the night. The wind wasn’t helping us either. But we were determined
to continue our journey and so we began trekking to our next campsite.
Bhojwasa is named
after the Bhojpatra trees, the bark of which was used as paper during older
times. The trek up till Bhojwasa is very straight forward and simple. The climb
is gradual, with some small steep patches and landslide patches.
Bhojwasa is also a
pilgrimage stop for the people who come to visit Gomukh. So the campsite has a
small Ashram, a forest department’s guesthouse and police quarters. Our exact
camping spot in Bhojwasa was right next to the river and open from all sides.
Now, this would sound really exciting except for the insane, chilly winds
coming at us from all directions. We reached the campsite by noon and it was
already freezing. The temperature was well below 10 degrees and we quickly
layered up.
Post our lunch, we
were taken for an acclimatization climb on our side of the river. The path to Gomukh
started from the other side of the river and there was no bridge connecting the
two sides. The only way to go to the other side was through this tiny box
pulley which had to be manually pulled from the other side of the river. The
whole idea was extraordinary and I decided to not worry about it till the time
actually came upon us.
Our acclimatization
climb took us far into the valley. Our guide told us that just 10-15 years ago,
the Gomukh glacier was at a point just half a kilometer further inside from
where we were standing. Due to global warming, the glacier had melted and was now
4 kms further inside the valley. The pilgrims who came to visit Gomukh did not
go to the current site of Gomukh but visited the original site. We were all
pretty alarmed with the information. In cities, we only hear and speculate
about global warming and its effects but up in the mountains, the reality is
harsh and apparent and stares at you in your face.
After we got back, we
had a briefing before summit day with our TTH team. The team had decided that
we were to start towards the summit very early. Precisely at 3 AM. We were
definitely taken aback but the team had its reasons. There was a storm warning
for the second half of the day and they wanted to make sure we came back to the
campsite before the storm. We were advised to go to bed by 8 PM so that we
could be up at 3 AM.
It was another
sleepless night; because of the cold and because of the apprehension and
excitement for summit day.
 |
| Bhagirathi Peaks at sunset |
Day 5 – Bhojwasa –
Gomukh – Tapovan – Gomukh – Bhojwasa
Distance – 18 KMs
Difficulty level –
Extremely difficult
 |
| P.C. Ujwal Jakhotiya |
Our alarm went off at
2.30 AM. I didn’t have any difficulty getting up because I hadn’t slept at all.
We were already all layered up and just had to put on our shoes. The cooking
team was ready with breakfast and tea. The camp site was buzzing with
activity and people trying to keep themselves warm. The temperature was sub
zero and the winds were extremely chilly. But the night sky was totally lit!
Millions of stars just waiting to be stared at in awe.
At 3 AM sharp we
walked the couple of steps to the box pulley just next to the river. Even
getting into the box seemed to be a task! And to begin with there was
absolutely no one on the other side to pull us over. We all looked at each
other with confusion. Then one of our trek guides got into the box with one of
our fellow trek mates. Another two guys from the TTH team pushed them over the
pulley and due to the slope till the middle of the length, the box trolley went
on by itself. But as soon as it reached the middle, it stopped. Both of them
stuck in mid-air. And then the impossible happened! Our trek guide jumped out of
the box and threw a rope to the ground after tying one end to the trolley. He
then very gracefully and very swiftly went down the rope. He just missed the
water and then climbed his way to the other side of the river. He then singlehandedly pulled
the trolley. After our friend got off the trolley, they sent the trolley back.
 |
| Day time picture of the river crossing. Check out the tiny trolley. P.C. Yogendra Godbole |
Our group had 18
people and it was going to be a long and enduring task for all of us to reach
the other side. The first trolley was followed by another with 2 guys in it,
which was followed by my trolley. Once we were on the other side, we helped
pull the pulley and to get the others on our side of the river. The whole
exercise took 2 hours! And after that, though I was exhausted, I was definitely
not feeling cold. Our hands burned because of holding the rope too tight. I
couldn’t even imagine what the guys must have felt because the girls had just
helped out. The main pulling had been done by the guys.
And I forgot to
mention the most fun part of this activity, the entire activity happened only
in starlight. We were pulling the rope in the darkness with just one torch lit
at the side. We stepped on each other, on stones and sometimes on the rope
itself. It was 5 AM by the time everyone was on the other side of the river.
After a quick 10
minutes break and one apple later, we formed a line and began our trek towards
Gomukh. All torches on, carefully putting one foot after the other. Slowly the
night sky turned pink and then orange and somewhere the sun came up. We
couldn’t see the sun at all because we were surrounded by mountains on all
sides. We were hoping the sun rays would reach us sooner than later so that we
could feel warmer.
 |
| P.C. Tanveer Ahmed |
After we were half way
through, the path suddenly disappeared and we were walking on the river bed.
The river bed is massive and full of water during the summer season. But in
October, it is 70% dry and the water runs down the valley like a snake. The
path got tougher from here on. At some points there were huge boulders which we
had to cross. The rocks were slippery sometimes and a stream of water gushed
out between gaps.
Finally, after
crossing many mountains and valleys we could see the massive mouth of the
Ganga. It was gigantic. The river was gurgling out of the cave like structure
and above it rose a huge mountain. After a couple of minutes of further
inspection, we realized that the mountain like structure wasn’t a mountain but
was ice. It was the Gangotri glacier. Towering high above the mouth of the
river, the glacier looked fearsome. The water coming down was a pure turquoise
blue. I guess there isn’t purer water anywhere else on this planet!
 |
| Gomukh |
On the right side of
Gomukh, rose another structure. I am unsure if I can call it a mountain because
it looked more like a pile of lose rocks, stones and gravel. After we had
finished clicking pictures and taking in the glacier and the origin of Ganga,
we were asked to reassemble. Our trek head pointed to the pile of rocks. That’s
the way to Tapovan, she said. It was quite hard to believe that anybody could
actually climb that. She told us directly that the way from here to Tapovan was
tough. The climb was a 70 degree ascent with only loose rock and gravel. It was
a landslide prone area which meant that we had to forever be careful while
climbing up and then down. She further said that those who did not wish to
continue could go back to the campsite in Bhojwasa. 8 out of the 18 people
decided to go back. And I just stood there looking at the pile of rocks,
completely unsure of what to do. Yes, there were two summits in this trek; Gomukh and Tapovan. I had already made it to Gomukh and I didn’t have to feel
bad. But there was a nagging feeling in my stomach. It was a challenge and I
wanted to face my fear. If not now, then when!
 |
| Find me if you can |
I finally swallowed
hard and decided to do it. I was more worried about the climbing down part than
the climbing up part. And just thinking about the climbing down was making me
nervous. We said our byes and see you soon at the campsite to our 8 friends who
were going back and then followed our trek guide into the rubble……………….
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| Mount Shivling and Bhagirathi Peaks |
 |
| Mount Shivling and Tapovan P.C. Hiren Parekh |
The meadows of Tapovan
spread out like a blanket while Akashganga was flowing right through it. Of
course, the view was surreal! So was the cold and the wind. There were a couple
of tents scattered around. Those were of the trekkers who had come to summit
Mount Shivling. The success rate of climbing Mount Shivling is much lower than
Mount Everest. Thanks to those insanely sharp edges and treacherous slopes. The
top of Mount Shivling looks like the face of Ganesha, if seen from the correct
angle and with enough sunlight. Fortunately, we were blessed with an amazingly
clear sky.
 |
| Sumitteers |
 |
| P.C. Hiren Parekh |
After a lot of
pictures and some food, we were ready to say our goodbyes and start the
descent. Don’t even ask me about the descent! Yes, it was bad. But I made it
with hardly any bruises. Once we reached Gomukh, the trek back to Bhojwasa was
just a dream. We were beyond tired and wanted to reach the campsite. We went
through the pulley-trolley again and finally made it to Bhojwasa. Our friends
greeted us like some kind of war heroes. Well, that’s what it felt like!
Day 6 – Bhojwasa to
Gangotri
Distance – 14 KMs
Difficulty level –
Easy but long
We went back the same
way we had climbed up. It was a pretty straight forward climb down. And we were
back in Gangotri in the early evening. And an amazing meal and hot bath was
waiting for us.
Things to carry:
1.
All the usual things –
t-shirts, track pants, undergarments. (Don’t carry too many)
2.
Thermals (pure wool) –
an absolute must (top and bottom)
3.
Layers – at least 2
(one must be fleece)
4.
Day thermals
5.
Gloves
6.
Neck gaiter
7.
Woolen socks
8.
Good shoes.
(Recommendation – Action Trekking Shoes)
Some other stuff which
could interest you:
1.
You can book the
forest guest house at Bhojwasa if you want a warm room instead of a cold
sleeping bag.
You can find the details here:
2.
Do not underestimate
Himalayan weather. Be completely prepared for extreme cold.
3.
If you are really tired,
you can book a mule to take you up till Bhojwasa. After that, you are on your
own.
4.
Also, you can get some
absolutely tasty maggi or parathas at the guesthouse. Just in case you feel
like it.
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