Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

Trek: Kashmir Great Lakes (KGL)
August 2017

Highest Altitude: 13750

Duration: 8 Days

Skill: Moderate

Endurance: Difficult

Trek Organizers: Trek the Himalayas

Trek Guide: Pawan

Co-guides: Riyaz Bhai and Farooq Bhai

Trekkers: Sanjeev, Suresh, Ravi, Prasad, Vasant, Sagnik, Chandan, Rajat, Sweta, Veena, Munnabhai, Zubair, Meenakshi, Akshay, Hiren, Mario, Mayuri, Sharayu

Head Cook: Kashi

I skipped along the final few yards and ran towards the tents which had already been set up. Not many people from the group had reached yet as a plonked my bag down on the rock outside one of the tents and sat down next to it.

The camp was right next to the Nandkul lake and the shards of sunlight were filtering in through the clouds and mountains to give an ethereal glow to the water. I stared and stared till my eyes burnt and I had to look away for a second. Even after witnessing so many beautiful lakes their beauty still managed to enthral me.

It was a weird feeling. Yes, definitely weird. Immense relief and gratitude ran through my body but it was mixed with a slight tinge of irritation and sadness. It was technically the last day of the trek and the last camp, now only the final descent to Naranag remained for the next day.

‘All well?’ came a voice across my shoulder. ‘Yes, Riyaz Bhai. I made it to camp.’ He smiled and went inside the kitchen tent.

Seven days ago, a group of nineteen enthusiastic and extremely excited trekkers started the long and strenuous Kashmir Great Lakes trek. We knew it wasn’t going to be easy but we were all upbeat with the zest to complete it no matter what.

Day 1: Sonmarg Base Camp

We reached our Sonmarg base camp from Srinagar in the afternoon to find our campsite ready and waiting for us. We were greeted by not only our camp leader Pawan but also the chilly winds from the river flowing right next to our campsite.

First days at campsites are definitely the most exciting. We were all looking at each other with apprehension and growing interest. We were supposed to live together and survive together for the next seven days and it was important that we all formed a bond.

There are only a few instances in life where a group of random people from very different walks of life are brought together and they get along like a house of fire. I have been to group treks and trips before but I haven’t so far met any group with such synergy.

After the mandatory intro rounds we were all asked to tuck in early as we had an early morning 6 AM call to begin our first day to Nichnai Camp.

‘Guys sab nahke aaye hai?’ asked our co-guide Riyaz. ‘Agle 7 din aise hi rehna hai’

We all laughed and nodded but we weren’t prepared for the reaction of our fellow trekker.

‘Kya?! Ye toh kahi nahi likha tha ki nahne nahi milega!’ Meenakshi definitely seemed to be reconsidering her decision to go on this trek. :)

Day 2: Sonmarg to Nichnai

We started the day with a quick warm up session. No wonder they made us warm up because immediately after the session we started our 70-degree ascent towards Table Top point. Our bodies started to retaliate and our breathing was strained but each one continued while taking short breaks to look over Sonmarg on the other side.

Here is a picture of the beautiful Table Top.

We continued on till Tea Point. This was also the point where some of our lives changed forever. Ok, maybe that was way too dramatic. But that was the first time many of us were introduced to the Kashmiri chai, Kehwa! Obviously, there was no looking back after this. We craved Kehwa throughout this trek.

Our first day was the most strenuous and tiring more so because of the height that we covered. We went from 7800 feet to 11500 feet in a single day.

Lunch was packed and right next to a river.

We reached our Nichnai camp by 4 in the afternoon and collapsed on the grass outside the tents.

Many of us including me had headaches. Headaches which wouldn’t go away. But I avoided taking any medicines and waited for my body to acclimatize.

Takeaways: Height: Do not underestimate the height that you cover on the first day. Oxygen levels decrease by around 30% and your body needs time and patience to get acclimatized to the new environment. But at the same time there is no need to panic, your body is much stronger and adaptive that you can imagine.

What to do: Lots of water (at least 4 litres). Decent amount of food. Do not sit in your tents when you reach the camp site, it’s really important to acclimatize. Cover your head, ears, hands and feet.

Day 3: Nichnai Camp to Vishansar Camp (via Nichnai Pass)

Thankfully when I woke up the next day my headache had subsided. None of my body parts were paining and I was pretty much good to go.

There was no packed lunch for the day as we were planning to reach the campsite latest by 2 PM.

The climb up to Nichnai Pass which is at 13000 feet is steep but after that we were rewarded with a long walk.

Our camp was just 1 km from the lake but we decided that we would visit it the next day on our way to the Gadsar camp site. 

As we were about to reach our camp site we saw ominous looking dark black clouds approaching us. It made me walk much faster because I really didn’t want to take the efforts of wearing my poncho.

The camp was as beautiful as the previous two and I quickly found our tent and put all my luggage in.

Within an hour of our reaching camp it started raining and the blue skies disappeared behind an army of black clouds. The temperature dropped and we pulled out extra clothes and fleeces to wear.

Our dinner tent was our hangout place and everyone huddled inside to play games and chitchat. The best part was that our amazing kitchen team served us hot tea, soup and snacks in the tent to keep us all happy.

The afternoons and evenings were filled with music, laughter and games (Mafia being one of our favourites)

Takeaways: Our body was much better accustomed to the weather and physical activity. One must trust their instincts and the ability of their bodies to cope with adverse environments. But this doesn’t mean taking signs and symptoms for granted. One must report anything amiss to the trek head immediately. The mountains are such that anything can happen at any moment.

Day 4: Surprise, Surprise!

Since the beginning of the trek we had been hearing that the Gadsar Pass was the most difficult of the lot and we had mentally prepared ourselves for the challenge.

But when we woke up at 5 AM on the fourth day we were welcomed by torrential rain and wind. We couldn’t see the mountains which were otherwise sitting right next to us. It was raining cats and dogs and everyone was huddled in their tents. We decided to go back to bed as it was clear we would have to wait till the rain subsided. After an hour when we woke up the rain had reduced but hadn’t stopped.

I dared to get out of my sleeping bag and ventured out. Some people were already out, wearing their ponchos or huddling close to their tents. We were told that we would have to wait till the rain stopped.

Farooq Bhai pointed towards the Gadsar peak which we could see from our campsite and showed us the accumulated snow.

‘it has snowed there. We might be able to cross but our horses won’t be able to. It will be very slippery, muddy and cold. We have to wait. We will wait till 10 AM or we stay back for the day and pray for clear skies tomorrow.’

Luckily for us, we had a spare day in our itinerary for days such as these but we were pretty much bummed about not covering Gadsar pass. More so because we were all mentally prepared to take up the challenge but now we had to wait.

We spent the day playing various games and roaming around the campsite in the cold and rain. We all decided to visit Vishansar lake and got to spend a lot of time at the lake. That meant amazing pictures and videos!

The day was spent well and we all went to our tents post dinner praying for a sunny and clear morning. 

At about 2.30 AM I was woken up by loud barking from somewhere on the campsite. The dogs continued barking for a good fifteen minutes while I contemplated if I should peek through my tent. But before I could decide I heard deep growling right outside our tent. The growling wasn't similar to the barking of the dogs. In my half-asleep state, I panicked and snuggled deeper inside the sleeping bag. There was no way I was going to risk taking a peek and so I made myself fall asleep. Soon the growling stopped and the dogs quietened.

The next day morning I told Farooq Bhai about what I had heard.

'Yes, you would have. There was a bear at our camp site yesterday night.' He said casually.

I looked at him speechless for a couple of minutes and then told him to stop messing with me. How could there be a bear at our campsite! It sounded outrageous.

'Yes, there was. He came for the sheep but the dogs scared him off. He attacked one of the crew from the other camp. You can go see.'

After further investigation, I found out that indeed a bear had visited our campsite the night before. I thanked God for making me stay in my tent. A bear, dear God!

Takeaways: Weather in the mountains is highly unpredictable so it is important that one is prepared. We were told that if the rain had continued through the day and night our campsite would have received snowfall.

The mountains and the wilderness are not to be taken for granted. You are only a guest in the natural habitat of predators and you must respect them.

I had read in a wildlife sanctuary once, 'Wildlife will appear when you least expect it.' So true!

Day 5: Vishansar Camp to Gadsar Camp (Via Gadsar Pass - 13750 feet)

When we got up the next day our tents were shrouded in a thick fog. The fog and mist pretty much covered everything and we couldn't see much farther away. But we were grateful that it had stopped raining and it hadn't rained through the night.

Though the fog made the air chillier we found out that once the fog lifted we would get a clear sky. Hoping for the best we finally packed our bags and were ready to depart. We left camp site earlier than usual as the day was long and we had to reach the next camp site before the weather deteriorated.

We bypassed Vishansar lake as we had spent a good amount of time there the previous evening and climbed our way to the next lake - Kishansar. Kishansar lake is pretty much hidden till you reach a certain point on a plateau and you are suddenly taken aback with the blue azure waters. 

As we reached the first plateau after the steep climb we finally got to see a glimpse of the sun and the clear blue sky hiding behind all the fog. We dropped all our bags and ran towards the water. The Kishansar lake lay just below the Gadsar peak and the peak seemed nearer than ever. The slow moving of the fog and clouds over the water was beautiful and we managed to watch the entire spectacle. 

After some amazing moments and pictures, we moved along. Our next stop was going to be lunch next to Gadsar lake. We continued climbing towards the peak. It had been close to 4.5 hours since we had been climbing and there was still more distance to be covered before we reached Gadsar Lake. 

From afar I could see some people standing over a ridge and instinctively knew that they were looking at Gadsar lake. This made me quicken my pace a little bit and I climbed the last bit to reach the ridge. And as I had envisioned I saw the beautiful lake in front of me. It was by far the biggest lake we had seen and the color of the water was bluer than any blue I had ever seen.

It does leave you speechless for a couple of minutes before you realize that you have been standing there staring at a lake for a good amount of time. I had some time before everyone reached the spot and found myself a rock with the best view and settled down. In the twenty odd minutes that I was sitting there and observing the lake, I must have seen at least twenty different shades of the blue water. This was because of the cloud play happening above in the sky. 

The water changed color so frequently that I couldn't get enough of it. I tried to capture the moods in my camera as much as I could but only the actual vision can do justice to its beauty. There is a beautiful waterfall which joins the lake and the gushing sound of it is the only sound that breaks the silence otherwise. 

We had our lunch at this magnificent spot and rested awhile before embarking on the remainder of our journey.

We were relieved to find out that the rest was mostly climbing down and walking though the distances were long. But we were blessed with the views of more smaller lakes along our way which kept us entertained and enthralled. 

Gadsar camp is one of the warmer camps and we were extremely relieved to reach the campsite. Warmer weather meant the luxury of scrubbing our faces and comfortably changing into warmer clothes. It also meant getting rid of the gloves till sunset. 

We found ourselves singing and playing games in the dinner tent and celebrating the completion of the day and everyone's safety and good health. We enjoyed each other's company immensely and it was like spending good time with one's family. The TTH crew joined us as and when they could and were very much part of our gang. 

Takeaways: Conquering Gadsar peak and reaching Gadsar camp was considered to be the most difficult day in the trek but each person managed to complete it beautifully. Our biggest obstacles are those of the mind and we learnt to conquer them one day at a time. And the most important takeaway was the fact that each one of us lived in the moment. We did not think of yesterday nor did we worry about the tomorrow, our entire energy was focused on our task at hand. Isn't that how life is supposed to be lived? :)

Day 6: Gadsar camp to Satsar Camp

The day began with an exciting experience of glacier crossing. The glacier formed a bridge over the river next to our campsite and we used it to reach the other side. Enthusiastic banter continued between the group with the news that it was going to be a relatively easier day. I was prepared for a difficult one not letting my mind weaken even a bit.

And the truth is that even though the distance was lesser the climb was steep and we had to push ourselves to move forward. After climbing for over two hours we reached a spot where we all settled down to get a glimpse of the beautiful peak of Nanga Parbat. 

The clouds kept moving over it but we finally managed to get a good look at the peak. Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest peak in the world and lies in the Gilgit Baltistan region in POK. The mountain is also one of the most difficult to conquer and hence is called the Killer Mountain by locals. 

The rest of the day was a fun walk amongst plains and mountains. Satsar translates to seven lakes and we saw two of them on our way to camp. Unlike the other lakes, the lakes we saw that day were shallower and hence of a different color. Of course, they were as beautiful as the rest. 

Our Satsar campsite was also next to a river and we spent some time roaming around and playing games. We also visited a Shpeherd's hut and were offered the wonderful Noon Chai and Chapatis. The night was beautiful with a clear view of the Milky Way. Check out some of the photos we clicked. 

Day 7: Satsar Camp to Gangbal Camp (Via Zach Pass at 13000 feet)

This day marked the most difficult trekking experience for me. I woke up with a horrible cold with a blocked nose and sore throat. I could hardly breathe through my nose sitting down and I wondered how I would manage to climb anything. We had another pass to cross at 13000 feet and the climb was going to be steep and rough. It was one of the most treacherous climbs as we had to brave huge rocks and boulders.

Within a couple of minutes, I was completely out of breath and sat down with exhaustion. The cold and cough had also made my body weak and my joints and ribs hurt with the constant coughing.

I did not think I would be able to reach the pass and was close to a nervous breakdown. But my friends and our guides did not let that happen. They encouraged me and supported me to keep me going. They told me to take my own time and that there was no hurry to reach the pass. Slowly and painfully I climbed and only because of my friends and our wonderful co-guide Farooq Bhai was I finally able to reach the pass. Without even looking at the view I dropped my bag down and lay down for a couple of minutes. 

I was immensely relieved that I had made it to the top and in good time. My nose was pretty much blocked and I felt feverish but I was ready for the challenge and I knew I would reach camp safely. 

When I finally felt rested I looked up to see the view and it was nothing short of spectacular. One can see the Harmukh peak (read the story at the end of the blog) with the twin lakes, Gangbal and Nandkul from Zach Pass. We spent some time at the pass and then began the painful descent towards the lakes. We could see the tiny camps next to Nandkul lake from the top and we knew where we had to reach. The climb down was painful to the legs but we ran down as much as possible and reached the campsite by lunch. 

Our camp was right next to the Nandkul lake and we had a good and clear view of the lake. 

After having lunch and resting awhile we climbed a little to see the Gangbal lake. Camping next to Gangbal lake is prohibited (Read the story at the end of the blog). There is a temple at the bottom of the lake which is inaccessible and one can see a huge stone carved with 'Om' at the banks of the lake. 

We spent our evening at Gangbal lake and got back to camp. It was the last night of our trek and we were all feeling emotional.

Pawan asked all of us to gather in the dinner tent for celebrating the successful completion of our trek and to share the memories we had all gathered. 

We were all given certificates and a chance to speak about our experience and to thank each other for the wonderful memories. We were all emotional and the night was full of memories of the trek. 

Takeaways: I learnt how much strength and potential I had after I finished the climb to 13000 feet. I learnt the importance of friends without whom I would have been a mess and wouldn't have been able to make it to the top. There is nothing that one cannot achieve! :)

Day 8: Gangbal camp to Naranag (Final descent)

The last and final day was a long descent towards civilization. We were climbing down from 11500 feet to 7500 feet. Many people consider climbing down easier but it most certainly is not. Climbing down stresses your legs and joints. It is important to learn the proper technique to climb down to give your joints maximum support. Knee caps definitely help. 

After climbing down half way, we reached the famous 'T' spot where we got phone connection. After a week without any mobile connection everyone rushed to start their phones and reach out to their families to tell them about their safety and good health.

We had our cups of hot and steaming Kehwa and Haldiram's bhujia and prepared for our final descent towards Naranag.

From the ‘T’ spot one can view the houses in Naranag and the distant roads of the town. But the climb down is the most painful one I have encountered. With every turn of the mountain you would feel closer to the destination but don't be fooled with the view because it is a long, long way down.

Our legs were trembling as we climbed down and the path is littered with loose stones and soil which makes it slippery. It is important to climb down carefully to make sure you don't slip. 

Our entire group reached Naranag safely by 2 PM. We looked at the flat ground and roads and felt our hearts swell with happiness. We sat down in chairs after a week and heaved a sigh of relief.

It dawned on me how many things I took for granted every day and I felt thankful for everything that I had. 

It was time for goodbyes and farewells. But none of us were worried because we knew we had made friendships for life and there would be many more treks and adventures that we would doing together in the future. 

What all to carry:

1. Three trackpants

2. Three tshirts

3. One fleece full sleeved tshirt

4. One fleece track pant

5. Fleece jacket

6. Winter jacket

7. Gloves

8. Monkey Cap

9. Woollen socks

10. Socks

11. Torch

12. Toiletries - Medicines, Cold cream, lip guard, Wet wipes (very important - remember water is going to be icy cold)

13. Water bottles - two 1-liter bottles

14. Poncho

15. Battery banks (There will be no electricity for 7 days)

16. Energy bars

17. Electrol/ Glucon-D

18. Chocolates and Snacks

19. Cheese cubes

20. Dry fruits (especially dates)

21. Garlic chutney (to each with your food. Garlic helps in higher altitudes)

22. Good and strong shoes (Action shoes are my favorite and I swear by them. Go and buy a pair. Thank me later 😊)

23. Slippers/Floaters

24. Scarf or head band to protect your hair

25. Tiffin box
26. Knee caps
27. Walking stick

Other things:

1. Higher altitudes mean lesser oxygen and your body needs ways and mean to cope with it. It is extremely important to keep drinking water throughout the day, at least 4 litres. Do not compromise on food as the body needs food for strength and for keeping itself warm.

2. Do not go anywhere alone. The mountains are dangerous.

3. Always listen to your trek guides.

4. Keep yourself covered at all times. You might feel warmer as the day progresses but do not remove all layers as the sweat will make you cold.

5. Early to bed, early to rise.

6. Always be on time so that the group isn't inconvenienced. 

7. You have to pack your own sleeping bags so make sure you are up on time as this takes time.

8. The cook will give you hot tea, hot water, soup, etc - Always have it.

9. Small steps and a steady pace will take you a long way.

10. Prepare yourself with cardio activities at least from a month before your trek. Do not attempt this trek if you don't have prior trekking experience.

11. If you don't have the habit of carrying your bag (8-10 kgs) please do not attempt it. You can give your bag to the mule and only carry your day bag.

12. Do not leave anything behind. No trash. It is our responsibility to keep our planet clean.

Special Thanks:

To our trek guides - You guys were amazing!

Our cooking team - What would we do without you!

All other TTH crew - Thank you :)

Mules and Horses - We wouldn't have a tent over our head without you! 

Fellow group mates - You were a family to me and I will forever cherish our memories together.

People of Kashmir - You are wonderful and amazing. Thank you for your love and hospitality.

Photo Credits: Credits also go to my awesome friends Hiren, Akshay, Mario Sir and Veena.

P.S. - Please don't believe the media reports about Srinagar and Kashmir. It is completely safe to travel there and the people of Kashmir will welcome you with an open and warm heart. :)

Stories from Campsite:

The story of Harmukh:

The name Harmukh comes from the fact that the face of the mountain looks the same from all sides. The peak is extremely tough to conquer and not many have managed the feat.

An interesting tale was shared with us by the locals. 

A shepherd once lived at the base of mount Harmukh and would let his goats graze on the slopes of the mountains. One fine day when the goats returned the shepherd realized that someone had already milked his goats. He was perplexed but decided to let it go. The next day the same thing happened again and continued for days to come.

He then decided that he had to find out and resolve his problem. One morning he set out and followed his goat to the very top of the peak. He was surprised to see the goat enter a cave and disappear behind a rock. 

He waited outside and after sometime the goat walked out and he realized that those goats had been milked. He decided to venture inside and find out for himself.

Inside the cave he found a very old sage meditating. The sage opened his eyes upon seeing the shepherd and smiled.

He thanked him for the milk and requested him to keep his existence a secret as he did not want any
one to disturb his meditation. The shepherd bowed down to him and agreed to keep his secret. 

The shepherd managed to keep the sage's secret for a few months but after that he couldn't keep it to himself any longer and hence told his friends and family from the village. Now that everyone was curious to see him, people went to the cave where the sage was residing. The sage realizing that the shepherd had broken his promise got furious and turned into a snake and killed the shepherd. 

The villagers were then scared and backed off. For many years nobody was able to scale the Harmukh peak. 

Sinister Gangbal:

It is believed that the Kashmiri Ganga flows from the top of the mountain into the Gangbal lake. Hence the Gangbal lake is considered holy. There is a temple at the bottom of the lake and a stone engraved with OM on the banks of the lake.

The Kashmiri Pandits immerse the 'Asthiyan' of their passed away family members in this lake.

The government has banned camping at the lake and nobody stays near the lake at night. People have heard and seen sinister things at the lake post sunset and it it said that the water of the lake is dangerous for anyone attempting to stay the night. 

Some more photos:

Trying to be goofy :) 

 Glacier crossing!

Our favorite hangout place - our dining tent!

 Sheep!

 Fresh trout fish from the lake

Beautiful Dal Lake :)